The great rosés of the Loire are usually among the last to be released and this arrived just a bit earlier than expected. While most producers of rosé in France push to get their wines to market as early as possible in the spring to make sure they’re available for summer, most producers here in the central Loire see their rosés as being a little more serious than wash down wines for the pool. These wines do in fact age very well but I’ve never really seen the point since they’re so good right off the boat.
Domaine Baudry is generally considered to be the finest producer in the Chinon appellation, ground zero for great Cabernet Franc. As good as the reds are though, the scarce rosé (and even more elusive white wine produced at Baudry) is one of the region's best kept secrets and not making very much of it makes it pretty easy to stay under the radar.
While the limestone soils in Chinon generally produce the most serious, age worthy reds, it’s the gravel based soils near the river that produces the delicately textured fruit for the rosé. As with all of my favorite rosés this one is made by direct pressing of the fruit for subtle color extraction then aged in stainless steel briefly before bottling unfiltered to kept fresh. Farming is organic and impeccable with low yields for even the rosé and hand harvested fruit.
Very pale salmon color, firm on the palate with refreshing, bright acidity, bone dry with subtle peach and strawberry notes. Just 36 bottles available.
Steve Goldun
Author