Joyeux Nectars

 

 

Great Beaujolais is pretty easy to describe. That is, unless you happen to be a wine critic whose vocabulary is limited to descriptors like blockbuster, hedonistic, tarry minerals. Whatever the hell that last one is supposed to mean. I read a professional review of a red Burgundy recently that included the note "incipient notes of game bird" ??? Your golden retriever might be intrigued by that but I have know idea what that's supposed to mean either. Great Beaujolais is really simple though deceptively so; no palate staining tannins, no mocha or espresso, no pornographic levels of anything, no kaleidoscopic mélanges. Just vivacious red fruit, minerality and joy. Pure, unadulterated happiness. 

There are a number of excellent cru Beaujolais in the market but my favorite year to year is the Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py, the 2011 in this case. This particular bottle was opened at a pre-wedding lunch on Bainbridge Island last week with a handful of dear friends. A persistent rainstorm, actually more of a typhoon and really intense even by Seattle's standards, made for a weekend of inclement weather and we made the best of it with great food, wine and company. A handful of us stayed in attending to last minute wedding details and were rewarded with a memorable lunch of salad niçoise made with Italian tuna belly and sandwiches made from thin blades of the excellent local Beechers Cheddar, jambon de Paris, good butter and ficelles de pain.

All washed down with the Foillard as a fantastic accompaniment. It's moments like these that remind what I'm doing here.


Steve Goldun
Steve Goldun

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