The one word that comes to mind when I taste the wines of Jean-Philippe Fichet is transparency. HIs Meursaults are among the purest expressions of Chardonnay in all of Burgundy and have few rivals in terms of sheer quality. This small, immaculately kept domaine was started in the early 80's by Jean-Philippe with vineyards almost entirely in Meursault though no premier cru sites among them. No matter since his lieux-dit bottlings, often referred to as the deuxièmes crus of Meursault, generally outclass all but the very top few Perrières and Charmes of some pretty big names here. This overachievement can be attributed to meticulous farming, very low yields starting with severe winter pruning and careful attention to every step in the wine making process. Fichet uses little new oak, both 225 barriques and 500 liter demi muids, and the elevage is unusually lengthy here with most wines spending 18 months in barrel which he feels allows them to develop the most complexity. Batonnage is kept to a minimum which helps keep the wines detailed and pure.
The Bourgogne Blanc is a declassified Meursault from 3 different parcels and about 2/3 hectare of 55+ year old vines on the clay/limestone soils on both sides of the village. Like the rest of his wines, hand harvested fruit, barrel fermented, malo in barrel, one year in old wood and a further 6 months in tank to settle. Classic white flower, yellow fruit and mineral notes of great Meursault. Very dense mineral texture and excellent acidity with a surprisingly long finish for a wine that carries the humble Bourgogne appellation. One of the very best values in white Burgundy though very limited quantity with just a handful of barrels produced.
It might seem a bit surprising that this tiny domaine is so under the radar...
It might seem a bit surprising that this tiny domaine is so under the...