Sylvain Pataille just keeps making better and better wine here in this Côte d’Or backwater. Marsannay is the “famous” village in this northern extreme of the Côte and Sylvain, with just a decade or so worth of vintages under his belt, has risen to the very top of the list of producers here, one which includes the likes of Joseph Roty and Bruno Clair. At this point I think it’s clear that he’s making the best and most exciting wines here. This has everything to do with farming which is as natural as possible chez Pataille; organic farming, leaning towards biodynamic, hand picking and sorting of fruit, native yeast fermentations, minimal sulfur and then only at bottling the last couple vintages and judicious use of new oak. These wines never show oaky qualities at any age.