The Oddero winery is one of great historic Barolo estates, one of the oldest in the entire region having first bottled their own wine in the late 1800's when virtually everyone else was selling their wine off in bulk. The Oddero family has tended vines here far longer than that with the 7th generation now running the winery. Over the years, the family has amassed some 35 hectares of vineyards, about half of that in Nebbiolo for Barolo and Barbaresco, in most of the great vineyards in the Langhe including Brunate, Rocche dei Castiglione, Bric del Fiasc, Bussia, Villero, Vignarionda... Thier last purchase, a prime piece of Monvigliero, should bring us some pretty exciting wine in a couple of years.
This 2014 Barolo Classico (for lack of a better term) is usually made up of a blend of old vine fruit, 60+ years, from the Bricco Chiesa in La Morra and Bric del Fiasc in Castiglione but in 2014 the family decided to blend with the Brunate and Rocche dei Castiglione which are two of the most iconic vineyards in the Langhe. The 2014 vintage was a difficult one with lots of summer rain and multiple, devastating hailstorms creating massive headaches in the vineyards and many wineries declassified their cru holdings simply because they didn't have enough quantity to make a single parcel which is how this blend came about. A very difficult vintage to generalize as there are some pretty incredible wines, some of the best in the last couple of decades when things went right and this is one of them.
All of the Nebbiolo vineyards at Oddero have been farmed organically since 2008 and all are now certified. Not an easy process considering the fractured nature of the Oddero's holdings, relatively tiny parcels scattered across multiple communes. It's interesting to walk through some of these vineyards and see how much healthier there rows look than some of their neighbors and it really shows in the wines. Across the Oddero's range of wines, the concentration and detail are rather distinctive, the kind of quality that can only be made in the vineyard. Winemaking is traditional with long fermentations and macerations on the skins followed by long aging in giant botti of French, Slavonian and Austrian oak.
I tasted this wine out of bottle for the first time last week having just landed it and was just wowed. Subtle nose of licorice, tar and rose petal with delicate red fruit and mineral flavors and dense mid palate concentration. Long mineral finish. The tannins are fairly soft with typically firm acidity but a very pleasurable young Barolo right out of the bottle. This is easily the best value I've tasted in the vintage so far and bought as much as I could get but with yields way down and so little imported, there are only a few cases to go around.