I love Volnay and we should all be thankful that the village is veritably brimming with top quality producers, none more so than Michel Lafarge. A list of Volnay producers reads like a who’s who of Burgundy superstars: Hubert (now Etienne) De Montille, Comte Lafon, Marquis d’Angerville, Pousse d’Or… Still, Lafarge remains a reference standard for me. Holdings in top ranked premier cru sites like Clos des Chênes, Caillerets and Clos du Château des Ducs are reason enough to keep this domaine on your radar but the real magic with producers at this level is the ability to coax brilliance out of the most ordinary of climats.
The Lafarge Bourgogne Rouge is a standard bearer for this humble appellation, one I buy every year. This is a much more serious wine than the level might imply and it stands to reason; the Lafarges aren't in the business of making or selling mediocre Burgundy. The fruit comes from 50+ year old Volnay vines once classified as Volnay village and the wine really has the Volnay silk and spice.