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I’ve been tasting (and admiring) Guido Porro’s wines for years and have been on the fence regarding not their quality or style but accessibility. Guido Porro is defiinitely a traditionalist; 25 day fermentations in cement and three years in 1,500-2,500 liter botti. Some of these Serralunga Barolos can be pretty stiff wines in their youth. Especially the ones from vineyards surrounding the village where Porros’s single vineyard Barolos are farmed. These aren’t the flowery, softly tannic wines of La Morra but rather the perfumed, intensely deep and structured Barolos that speak for the greatness of the Langhe.
The last 15 years or so, really since the magnificent 1996’s, have been great for these wines with lots of round, accessible vintages. The current release of 2010, for my money clearly the best of the last 10 years, may turn out to be the best since the great 1989’s based on what I’ve been tasting. Not to mention the price; a great value at $39. Think value along the lines of Marcarini and Produttori del Barbaresco; wines every Nebbiolo junkie quietly fills their cellars with. From the couple of bottles I’ve tasted recently, this is just gorgeous Barolo to drink now, if just a little closed, and should age beautifully.
The Lazzairasco is from an old vine parcel within Lazzarito which is a southwest facing, steep amphitheater of a vineyard with loose clay over hard limestone and very little sand. Classic notes of menthol and licorice with red cherry and plum. Full mid palate and very long but firm finish.