The famille Gros has been a fixture in Vosne-Romanée since the mid 19th century where the original family domaine was known as the Domaine Gros-Renaudot. Today, the Gros name is etched into the history of Vosne-Romanée, the jewel in the crown of the Côte d'Or, along with the likes of Conti, Jayer, Camuzet and a few other illustrious names you might see chiseled into courtyard flagstones in this sleepy village. When you have vineyard holdings like Richebourg and Grands-Echezeaux not to mention the most famous parcel of Clos Vougeot you're sort of automatically royalty here. Until 1969 there was just Louis Gros but with four children and inheritance laws based on the Napoleonic code, domaines are constantly being divvied up in Burgundy. There were as many as 6 different Gros domaines in Vosne not all that long ago, a nightmare for a rookie stockperson in a good wine shop, and today down to a more manageable 4: Anne Gros, Michel Gros, A-F Gros and Gros Frères et Soeur. A rather diverse group stylistically ranging from the elegant, delicate wines of Anne Gros to the rich and powerful wines of Bernard Gros and his Domaine Gros Frères et Soeur.
Bernard has been running things here since the mid 1980's and is now working with son Vincent who joined the domaine after completing his enology degree. In addition to the star studded lineup of Vosne grands crus, Bernard farms 9 hectares in the Hautes-Cotes just above Vosne where this wine is grown. It's the same soil make up as Vosne, the classic limestone/clay terroir so essential to great Burgundy, and a little higher in altitude which is a good thing these days. Ripening is a bit slower up here and the resulting wines are a little more complex and retain freshness. Farming is the same as for the grands crus which is to say natural and with an eye on extremely low yields and concentrated fruit through severe pruning and green harvest. This particular wine has a reputation among Burgundy aficionados as a serious over-achiever and that's the reason why. I tasted this with the importer last week and actually placed an order before the bottle was opened. It's one of the very few wines you can rely on in Burgundy from vintage to vintage, one of the top sub $50 values in red Burgundy and the best I've had at this price point this year.
Pretty strawberry and spice with a bit of fresh mint on the nose. Pleasant bitter cherry fruit on the voluminous palate with good acidity to frame the rich fruit and lots of minerality on a long finish. This is some pretty sexy red Burgundy. Refreshing young Pinot Noir and a rather rakish example of the ripe 2015 vintage. Drinking very well now but will improve 10-15 years in the cellar.