Veuve Fourny Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Nature NV
The small Champagne domaine of Veuve Fourny has always been one to watch been and these last few years have established themselves as one of the top handful of addresses to pay attention to in the Côte des Blancs where Champagne's most prized Chardonnay is grown. Brothers Charles-Henry and Emmanuel Fourny farm just 9 hectares here in Vertus, one of the highest rated 1er Cru villages, a really tiny property in an ocean of giant commercial vineyards. Farming is sustainable, a very rare circumstance here, with an eye towards organic production and minimal intervention and the result is truly pedigreed Chardonnay.
Winemaking here leans towards bone-dry base wines, usually employing partial malolactic fermentations and low dosage, none at all in the case of this Brut Nature, and long aging for the vins clairs along with lengthy aging en tirage. This Brut Nature is from 100% Chardonnay from the oldest vines on the property, 65+ years, and based on the excellent 2012 vintage with mostly 2008 wine filling out the cuvée. Disgorgement took place last summer and the wines rested for over a year before shipping this fall.
This is just a delightful young Champagne with notes of citrus zest, white flowers ginger and crushed limestone. On the palate, a very detailed and precise textural profile with delicate flavors of chalky mineral, lime and Granny Smith apple. Long, clean finish thanks to the lack of dosage. And the price is unbeatable at less than $40. There's never much of this wine to go around and will disappear before the end of the year.