According to importer Terry Theise: "Though it has always been majority-Chardonnay, Billiot has increased the proportions lately. Old bottlings of Laetitia (which I dearly wish I'd kept, damn it) were fathomless and sometimes inscrutable. Leviathans of vinosity, but you had to tuck in and live with a bottle for an hour or so. Not any more. What I tasted was entirely open and forthright, with clear intensity and more Chardonnay hawthorne. It's nowhere near "modern" but it is more up-to-date; there's more greengage and spiciness, more scallop and saffron, and less of the funky temperament we knew (and yes, loved). This stacks up against any Champagne you'll ever find; a true Tête de Cuvée. It still wants another few months to knit together and soar, but man, such power and just crazed stubborn length--and such originality--this is all you can ask from Champagne, an ornery individualist of the type that's fast vanishing from our predictable world."