Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux 2017

Bernard Baudry and son Matthieu are making some of the best wines in Chinon these days from the best terroirs in the appellation in Cravant-les-Coteaux. That's saying something considering that they didn't even own vines 40 years ago. In fact, along with Raffault, these are pretty clearly the best two sources of Chinon in my mind. Where Raffaults wines tend to be powerful, brooding and very slow to evolve, Baudry's Chinons are made in a slightly more approachable style though not at the expense of structure or integrity. This is more like comparing Latour to Lafite than anything else.

Farming here has been fully organic since 2006, not easy to do in this continental climate with it's humidity and otherwise unpredictable weather. The domaine consists of various parcels planted on diverse soils around Cravant from pure limestone at the top of the slope facing the Vienne river to alluvial deposits near the bottom. Everything is done by hand here from pruning and picking to bottling. 


One of the truly great reds grown in the Loire, the Grézeaux bottling comes from a plot of 70 year old vines, the oldest at the domaine, from gravel beds over clay subsoils downslope and closer to the river. This is a subtle, quietly powerful example of Chinon with silky structure and deep complexity from the classic gravel terrain and proximity to the river, much like the best sites in Bordeaux for example. Another incredible value at under $30. Fermented in concrete and aged just a year in neutral barrels. The 2017 vintage produced wines with more classic typicity than the 2015 and 2016's. More transparent with a lovely purity and vivacity. This one is all red raspberry with touches of woodsmoke, graphite and tobacco. Deep red fruit and mineral on the palate with a long, dense mineral finish. This is great now but will age for 15-20 years no problem. never very much of this available.
 




Type: France

Vendor: Eno Fine Wine


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