Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2017

Bernard Baudry and son Matthieu are making some of the best wines in Chinon these days from the best terroirs in the appellation in Cravant-les-Coteaux. That's saying something considering that they didn't even own vines 40 years ago. In fact, along with Raffault, these are pretty clearly the best two sources of Chinon in my mind. Where Raffaults wines tend to be powerful, brooding and very slow to evolve, Baudry's Chinons are made in a slightly more approachable style though not at the expense of structure or integrity. This is more like comparing Latour to Lafite than anything else.

Farming here has been fully organic since 2006, not easy to do in this continental climate with it's humidity and otherwise unpredictable weather. The domaine consists of various parcels planted on diverse soils around Cravant from pure limestone at the top of the slope facing the Vienne river to alluvial deposits near the bottom.

Always the first wine to be released at Baudry, the Granges is the "basic" cuvèe here but still one of the top Chinon bottlings in my book as well as being one of the single greatest values in the entire valley. From fruit harvested from youngish (25-30+ year old) vines planted on alluvial gravels near the river Vienne, this wine just seems to get better every year as the vines age. Hand picked, like all of their the wines, fermented in large concrete and matured in a mix of large concrete and wood. The 2017 vintage is really showing it's stuff here. Cherries, ripe red raspberry and tobacco dominate the nose with just a whiff of smoke. Plenty of earth and mineral but this is at heart a fresh, racy cuvée that’s meant to be drunk in its youth. 

Type: France

Vendor: Eno Fine Wine

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